This bottling from Sonoma’s Moon Mountain falls in step with the winery’s richer winemaking style, yet it is a bit more temperate in ripeness and shows a lovely, supple feel all its own. It keys on very precise Zinfandel fruit from beginning to end with creamy oak adjuncts to its juicy, blackberry themes, and its nicely moderated tannins impart a good sense of firmness to its lengthy, not-too-hot finish. It is among the more accessible Jeff Cohn Zins at this point but has fine potential for growth and should reward a few years of cellar time.
Although heady ripeness is a theme that runs through all of the Jeff Cohn wines, this well-composed bottling from the Sierra Foothills is a bit more emphatic in well-defined fruit and shows an uncommon sense of layering for a wine of its unabashedly ripe persuasion and size. It fixes on blackberries early and never relents in its keenly fruity expression with nicely placed oaky extras and persistent suggestions of smoke and spice making for a fairly complex mix. It is big and well-structured with ample, yet integral tannins ensuring a very long life, and it fully deserves four or five years of cellaring.
This imposing, highly ripened and fully extracted Zinfandel is as bold and as rich as any of the current Jeff Cohn offerings, and, if it is bound to impress the weak of heart as being on the verge of losing control, there is no denying its generosity, its depth and its sheer fruity muscle. It is a full-throttle powerhouse that is sure to overwhelm all but the most flavorful foods, and it joins the ranks of big-impact Zins ideally suited for accompanying mealending cheeses.
Calling any of Mr. Cohn’s Zinfandels “light” would be to give the wrong impression, but within a family of big, broad-shouldered siblings the Dusi Vineyard bottling is the least muscle-bound of the brood. That, however, is not to say that it lacks for richness or concentration, and it steers to strawberries and plums with a mild trim of milk chocolate to its ongoing fruit. It tends slightly to softness on entry and initially impresses as wine to drink soon, but its aggressive, back-palate tannins make a strong case for three to five years of patience.
Showing lots of caramelized fruits, sweet oak, brioche, white flowers and honey, the 2012 Marsanne Stagecoach Vineyard is medium-bodied, pretty, lively and has terrific intensity and length on the finish. Picking up hints of minerality with time in the glass, it's a serious good, strikingly pure white to drink over the coming decade. Anticipated maturity 2015-2025.